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Walk Across Juarez #7

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I am smiling chuckling- we had so much fun there in Juarez.

I am high in Copper Canyon along the train line in the little town of Areponapuchi.

My room at Mansion Tarahumara is littered with scrawled papers, open books, dirty socks, half empty and stale tequila glasses…and I am deeply happy as I think back on the journey.

The walk across Juarez was so filled with jokes, laughter, affection, and friendship…that I just smile as I reflect.

I was deeply blessed and enriched by those steps across that troubled place- what an incredible trip.

The story is finished- or begun- not sure.

My old Tecate pen runs our of ink. I am about to run out of words to express all that was given me there.

Yet I will never fathom the depth of the storehouse of gifts I have from the people of Juarez.

Thank you.

Thank you Eduardo and Augustine and Esty and Sonia and Lorenzo and Gustavo and Sergio and Thomas and Liz and Antonio and Sol…

And most of all to my dear friend and brother, Alfredo Murillo. Thank you “Mr. Fettuccine” for the good van support, the translating, the food you found, the words of encouragement. Except hold it! You are the one that said this walk was “a  good thought but not a good idea”!

I love you jovencito, and I look forward to many more journeys with you through Chihuahua. May your tribe increase.

“You got it! Go for it gringo!”

I needed that.


Only the beginning…

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Back from Copper Canyon

Just back from another safe and fascinating trip to Copper Canyon, I was sitting this morning in the cafe of an El Paso hotel gobbling down some breakfast. From the muzak-like  speakers over head came the strains of that old CTA song, “Only the Beginning” and it took me back to 1969 and Tarkio College and all of that.

But it also took me forward to my wife and I right now and our vision with Authentic Copper Canyon to build a business and make a difference in Copper Canyon.

The vision for Copper Canyon

Our vision is connection. Connection of the lives of our guests with the people, culture and wonders of majestic Copper Canyon. Connection across a border wall that now separates and is based on fear. Connection that only reflects the actual connection we have culturally, economically, and historically. Connection that should be happening but is not because fear is easier than understanding. There is not now nor has there been any significant danger to travelers to Chihuahua or any part of Mexico over these past years. Yet a great divide has swollen like a festering wound along the borderlands and we all end up the lesser for it.

Only the beginning…

Authentic Copper Canyon had a group there last week (they loved it and always felt safe), has a group there now (they are loving it and feel safe I am sure), and we will take many more on small group trips to Copper Canyon. Over the last 8 days we walked the streets of Juarez, took in the night life- I even ran in the GNJ Marathon there! We ambled around Chihuahua City. We rode the Copper Canyon train up through the Sierra Madres. We drove up through the vast ranch lands toward Casas Grandes and Paquime and Mata Ortiz. We sipped sotol and lechuguilla and laughed and sang. We always felt safe and we were safe.

Every group is the same. They go with a bit of caution because our press (fear sells) and the State Department warnings (I find them frankly outlandish and inexplicable) about Mexico would scare even John Wayne, and because we always seem to assume the worst about Mexico. Then with every Copper Canyon trip, people realize with two days or so that its ok and wonderful and they enjoy the Copper Canyon train and the people deeply.

So this is only the beginning of thousands and thousands of people connecting with the gracious people of Chihuahua and the Copper Canyon wonders.

Only the beginning…only just a start! Oh baby, only the beginning!

Copper Canyon

High on a ridge above Batopilas on a recent Copper Canyon trip...only the beginning!

Marathon in Juarez- I ran it!

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Go to http://www.facebook.com/maratongnj and you can see me run by at about 27 seconds in my white Authentic Copper Canyon shirt with my friend Sergio Madero right behind me.

Yes Juarez in changing

I was in Juarez a few weeks ago with a gorup of writers and bloggers- a cool bunch and good sports too. Our objective was to show them that Chihuahua and Copper Canyon are not just miraculous but also safe for travel as well. The group included Sam Baerg of Sam’s Tours  , Ann Griffith of Frosh Travel in Ft Collins, Juan Luna of George Washington University, Ana Sofia Diaz of the Mexico Tourism Board in NYC (@MexicoTB), Sophie Brabenec from LA Splash Magazine, Josh Keene from Unfinished Man, Craig Zabransky of Stay Adventurous fame, Matt Karston of Expert Vagabond , Joey Parr and others.

Like Juarez is really changing

I can’t believe the change in just one year. I was there in August , 2011 for my “Walk Across Juarez” and the difference from then to now is amazing. More life, more businesses open, more positive vibe. And one more important fact that we never hear in the US.

While there was little or no danger for US visitors to Juarez during the worst of the gang violence, even that trouble is way down. It has been sliding down the past 24 months and in the first 8 months of this year, violence among the gangs is down 74%. It is on target to be down 90% in one year by years end.

My speculation is that now Juarez is safer for non-gang people than is its sister city El Paso. I certainly feel safer there. Yea really.

We really enjoyed Juarez

Our Copper Canyon trips usually do not include a stop in Juarez- it freaks people out if we do. Our typical route in is through Santa Teresa or to fly into Chihuahua City or Baja. But we truly miss something when we leave Juarez out. There is food, history, night life and hospitality beyond belief. One of my favorite hotels is the Best Western in Pronaf and our gracious host there Lorenzo has a team that delivers the finest in cleanliness, service, delicious food,and all we expect of our hotels on Copper Canyon trips. The whole Pronaf area is very secure and has been through all the problems and the hotel is very safe.

Actually one interesting note that in all of our trips, the only place we have had vandalism problems has been in El Paso- never in Juarez or anywhere else in Chihuahua.

Is Mexico Safe?

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Yes, yes, yes- Mexico is safe!

One more article on travel in Mexico just came out from someone who has actually been there- this time from one of the writers I recently took through Chihuahua. We had a group of writers, bloggers, tour providers, and travel professionals on a seven day journey in through Juarez, down through the Copper Canyon region and out through Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz. Josh Keefe of www.FlashPackerGuy.com was on the journey- actually he was linked to Jason Batansky of www.unfinishedman.com on this one. Anyway, Josh wrote a great article on his experiences in Juarez and here are some blips from it.

Resurrection in Juarez

“All statistics aside, Juàrez hardly feels like the most dangerous city in the world, nor does it feel like a particularly dangerous city at all

This is so true–the feel of Juarez is not of a place where we as travelers are in danger. And actually the stats bear this out. I have researched this extensively and am not aware of a single incident involving tourists in Chihuahua. The army and federale presence is not like it was. The actual numbers of violent incidents with the unrest there is down by 75% so far this year. Businesses are open and thriving and the city is positive.

You are welcome in Juarez

“People seem universally certain that the drug violence is over, that everything is getting better, and that the only thing lagging behind is public perception. They want Americans to come again…”

Josh and the whole group truly experienced the hospitality of the people of Juarez. We were celebrated, fed, shown all around and befriended.

Nightlife in Juarez

“The Kentucky Club seemed more than surviving. It was thriving, and so was I as I happily smoked cigarettes inside and enjoyed margaritas and the ubiquitous “Juàrez is safe now” pitches fed to me by Mexican girls with beautiful accents and beautiful curves. The place was packed by the time I got a ride back to the hotel. As far as I could tell, Kentucky Club , like Juàrez, itself, is back.”

Josh Keefe is Mr. “FlashPacker” guy and his quotes above give first had info on Juarez right now. Follow him on twitter —@FlashpackerGuy. Or Josh Keefe @1UnfinishedMan.

 

Is Mexico Safe…Really?

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Lonely Planet has published a very good article recently that brings some reason to this issue of violence in Mexico and how it affects Americans who travel there. We have written about it and have shared our experience, having taken many groups into Copper Canyon and Chihuahua right through these years of the conflict.

Here are the points from the LP article entitled “Are Americans Safer in Mexico Than at Home?” with some comments:

  • 1. Mexico may be more dangerous than the US overall, but not for Americans.
    The basic idea on this point is that the stats show that we are safer there. But there is a flaw in this point and one of the comments below the LP blog post points this out. However there is a line in the text that is worth noting. Americans who go to Mexico with some kind of involvement in the drug trade are lumped in with those who go as tourists. Take these drug dudes out of the equation and I think we would find that this point holds.
  • 2. Texans are twice as safe in Mexico, and three times safer than in Houston.
    Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/blog/2012/04/30/are-americans-safer-in-mexico-than-at-home/#ixzz2FdJV2tdz   This point has the same flaw as the first. However it is interesting that when I was recently in El Paso the Sunday paper was lamenting the rise in violence there. I always feel safer in Juarez than in good old El Paso. And I wonder if non-drug people are actually safer there statistically.
  • 3. And it’s not just Texas.The point here worth noting is that Texans are so jaded about the situation. Also a good point for all of us in the US to get is that the situation is changing there rapidly-for the better- and we don’t hear a peep of this in our press.
  • 4. By the way, most of Mexico is not on the State Department’s travel warning.
    This is a point that the Mexico Tourism Board has been making over and over. Mexico is a huge country and many many areas are not under the warning and have virtually no problems. Also my friend Terry Denton made this point in his blog Travel by Terry with an article called Mexico Maligned.
  • 5. Ms Obama ignored the Texas advice.I remember hearing Michelle Obama interviewed by some network when she took her girls to Mexico last year. The interviewer questioned her sanity and Michelle calmly spoke some sense into the conversation.
  • 6. I am often in border areas…especially Juarez. When I am in Juarez I feel safer than when in El Paso. And beyond this the people are friendlier, the food better and the hotels a much better value.
So this is a good article from Lonely Planet, and from our experience operating Copper Canyon trips many times each year, it reflects reality.

Dave Hensleigh in Juarez, Mexico

Dave actually walked across Juarez for three days recently to illustrate that even this troubled place is open for travel.

The Birth of the Margarita- Safely

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I travel all over Chihuahua as we treat people to our Copper Canyon train trips. Having studied and experienced he various ways of getting in and out of Copper Canyon I have opted out of other options companies use to save money or fill their own hotels. The best way is in and out of El Paso. Problem is that Juarez is right there and it freaks people out. I have no concern about traveling there- as a matter of fact I was just there for a few days, walking the streets at all hours, eating, doing business–no problems and never have had any over these past few years.

Recently I took some writers and bloggers through Juarez and they as most people had their cautions. But once they walked the streets and experienced the hospitality, they realxed and had a great time.

Juarez Margarita - Club Kentucky (c) C. Zabransky

Juarez Margarita – Club Kentucky (c) C. Zabransky

Craig Zabransky of Stay Adventurous wrote today about their experience going to the birthplace of the Margarita, Kentucky Bar, in downtown Juarez. They had a blast,”safely”. I really like the closing paragraph Craig wrote:

Yet, what made me smile most about the evening, was it was real, authentic. This wasn’t a tourist trap gimmick, not at all, this was real history and real people making a life in Juarez a city of 2million. So, not only did I change my perception about a place, but I also tasted history while doing it.

Actually so any places in Juarez are like this- not a tourist trap. One I discovered the other day is the Central Cafe. I will write about this place soon- a real blast from the past but it is just that way- its not a show- turquoise naugahyde and all!

Central Cafe - Mexico

More later about Central Cafe- like a 50s cafe in the US but its not a show–it is life as usual in Juarez!

Violence in Mexico: an update

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Here are some of my personal observations on the security situation- especially in Chihuahua and Copper Canyon:

1. I was in Puebla and Mexico City a few weeks ago for 10 days and security was not even an issue of discussion. This is interesting since the perception with so many in the US is that ALL of Mexico is gravely dangerous.

2. I watch a website and newsletter that is all about legalizing drugs and thereby stopping the drug war. I don’t fully agree with this viewpoint but I have felt it valuable to watch since they give a weekly Mexico violence update. Two years ago these spots were these graphic explanations of the drug guys killing themselves and the cops. Then I noticed that the stories were less frequent. Then they started running golden oldies- stories from one or two years back. Now there is nothing.

3. Once again I was in Juarez for several days a couple of weeks ago and the continued change is amazing. People cramming the streets, construction and life as usual. I can honestly say now that I prefer Juarez to El Paso or Phoenix. It is cheaper, hotels and eateries are better, people are friendlier- and I actually feel safer.

4. People in El Paso are still as vehemently negative. They are amazed I go to Juarez. Several of us are planning a bi-national 10K run for next October to run from the Mexican Consulate in El Paso to the US Consulate in Juarez. I know this route and I look forward to running it. More than this I look forward to the connection it will bring.

5. I would start taking our groups to Juarez today if I thought people would stand for it. I and other guides are still looking for one incident that has occurred in Chihuahua with tourists.

That’s my experience.

The birthplce of the Margarita -Club Kentucky, one of the fine old establishments in Juarez. (Craig Zabransky, @StayAdveturous)

The birthplace of the Margarita – Club Kentucky, one of the fine old establishments in Juarez. (Craig Zabransky, @StayAdventurous)

Running trip to Juarez Marathon

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Photo: 4ta Edicion Maraton Gas Natural de Juarez..<br />
PREPARATE !

I love Juarez–the much maligned sister of El Paso. As I have walked the streets there numerous times over the past few years (yes, during the “worst of times”) I have come to find it friendly, relaxed, developing and very welcoming to gringos like me.

So last year in October- actually on my birthday- I had a group of writers and bloggers there. They were hugely surprised as everyone I take there is at how safe it seems and is. So anyway I took the opportunity to run in the marathon there–actually a half for me. It was such a cool experience running along the border.

So I am planning a trip there for anyone who wants to run the marathon or half.

Here is the plan: Arrive El Paso and cross to Juarez. Overnight at the lovely Hotel Lucerna. Then spend the day exploring Juarez–the cool cafes, over to the border, relax by the pool and a big prerace dinner.

Then the marathon on the morning of October 20, some postrace festivities, clean up and off to Chihuahua City for the evening.

The next day we will embark toward the Copper Canyon area and spend 5 nights up and down the canyons, then out toward the border through Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz.

Approximate cost will be $1700 with most expenses included.


Open the Door and Let em In!

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Every day tons of products and materials flow across the border both ways--including some weapons to the consternation of the Mexicans.

Every day tons of products and materials flow across the border both ways–including some weapons to the consternation of the Mexicans.

I saw this article by Rana Foroohar on immigration reform in Time the other day and it seems to make perfect sense to me–based on my observations in Mexico and around the border.

Here are my non-political observations:

  • the border areas seem to be quite safe for gringos
  • the flow of people toward the US seems to have ebbed greatly and the Border Patrol looks to be idle
  • the Mexicans in Mexico just smile at our approach to the situation
  • all day long goods flow both ways across the border but the people flow is restricted
  • in the US we need the Mexican labor–like I talk to people all the time who wish it more possible to find more Latin help–THEY WORK!
  • most gringos- especially those close to the border have no idea what life in Mexico is like right now

I find life in Juarez to be much like that in Phoenix but it feels safer, the hotels are better and cheaper, the food is way better, and the people are 10 times as friendly.

Everywhere you see the message that people are commited to their city.

Everywhere you see the message that people are committed to their city.

 

 

Is Mexico Safe?

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Is Mexico safe?

Once again this morning I received an email with this question. Someone had been on this site and had some interest in going to Copper Canyon. I get this question quite often and I always try to answer as best I can and answer it completely. We assume a lot about Mexico and we hear many things about our southern neighbor–and we have for many, many years.

The State Department warning about Mexico

Read what our State Department says about Mexico travel and believe it reflects realty and you will not go there. From my experience there, I find the warnings for Copper Canyon and other areas a bit confusing. I have no way of checking the incidents they warn about except for the factors that I discuss below. I doubt that what they describe is based on stats or on the ground experience. Regardless, I encourage people to read the warnings and proceed as they feel comfortable.

We take small groups to Mexico quite often

In February, 2017 our local guides led 5 groups of travelers through the canyons in Chihuahua–and with no incident…just enthusiasm from our guests.

Here is why we keep taking small groups though less traveled places in Mexico–Copper Canyon, Oaxaca, Puebla, Merida, Chiapas, Mexico City and the Monarch butterfly reserves:

  • We have had no problems
  • Other groups we know of are trouble free
  • Our local guides have no hesitation
  • Stats show that Mexico ranks quite well with other locations (including the USA) for safety
  • My own experience on the ground (I am the guy who did the “Walk Across Juarez“) tells me it is fine to travel there

My business card

I have become frustrated on this issue with locals, the Mexico Tourism Board, and other entities. So I rebranded a bit and coined the marketing phrase, “Mexico: Safe, Enchanting, Get There”.

Lets go to Mexico!

My Card

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